Life Without a Car

8,260m Hike/Run & Fly (in a day)

Tue, 10 Sep 2019 09:54:53 -0700

Recently, after months of training, I completed an 8,000 meters-in-a-day hike & fly challenge. The mission? Hike/run/climb a mountain in the Chaîne des Fiz from the valley floor to a wild paraglider launch at 2,190m and fly back down to the start. Repeat this five times in a single day, for a total of 8,260m (27,099ft) of total elevation gain.

Usually, after completing a hike and fly objective, the impulse is to pack up gear and reflect on the experience. What would happen, I wondered, if instead I went up for a second or third lap? How many of these laps could be combined during daylight hours? There was a powerful appeal to the idea of ascending 8,000m in a single day. With a lightweight glider, training and the right flying conditions—this was not only possible but maybe even achievable.

The linear distance of the objective I'd chosen is 57km, almost entirely uphill. I'd never attempted a marathon before, let alone an ultra, so it didn't seem like a realistic goal. It was one of those things I put on my list "just because", but it was so far-fetched that I almost accepted from the start that it was just too big and probably wouldn’t happen.

The Live Your Dream grant by the American Alpine Club is given to "everyday adventurers" to foster progression in mountain sports. I applied for it thinking my chances were slim to none, and continued training. Imagine my surprise when, just 3 weeks before my challenge, I learned that I'd been accepted as a grantee!

I chose the summer solstice (June 21st) as my target date, and monitored weather forecasts obsessively. In order to pull this off, I needed a light facing wind at the takeoff, calm air in flight and zero precipitation for an entire day. Owing to the complexities of mountain aerology, this was a big ask.

Conditions were close to perfect...Read More

Hike and Fly (and train) - Chamonix France

Fri, 24 Nov 2017 13:08:31 -0800

Mountain friends Bill Zimmerman and Ryoko Amano share how they traveled in, up, and above Chamonix, without their car of course. Blog post written by Bill.

My paragliding partner and I turned an “unflyable” November day in Chamonix into an unforgettable hike and fly, door-to-door, without a car.

The infrastructure in the Chamonix valley is truly phenomenal. Nowhere else on earth can you ascend 2,742m (9,000 vertical feet) in the space of twenty minutes. Alpinists and skiers can sip cappuccinos at their leisure prior to boarding the cable car, pursue an adventure in the high alpine of the Mont Blanc massif, and return to the valley the same afternoon. This would be unthinkable in my native Pacific Northwest, where a similar outing might be done over several days.

Like all mechanical systems, this network of cable lifts and stations needs regular maintenance. These periods of downtime coincide with the low or "shoulder" seasons in the valley when visitor numbers dwindle. During the last three weeks of November, Chamonix enters a brief dormant phase when all the lifts, including the Aiguille du Midi, are typically closed. For some, this is a waiting period (une petite pause) before the winter season begins in earnest. The Aiguilles on both sides of the valley are relatively quiet for a change. Mountain fauna like marmots, chamois and ibex outnumber Homo sapiens alpinus.

A passing mid-November cold front covered the peaks above Chamonix and the valley floor with fresh snow—the first of the season. Rock faces shimmering with rime ice beckoned against a cobalt sky. I started feeling the familiar pull to get back up into the hills.

Of course, the mountains are ever-present—one just has to work a little harder than usual to access them this time of year.

Paragliding, which has become my primary obsession, has a sub-discipline often called "hike and fly" or...Read More

Gran Paradiso

Fri, 07 Apr 2017 03:31:48 -0700

In these years of ‘immigration crisis’ it’s no surprise we were stopped at the border. Our mini convoy of a NL (Netherlands) van with 2 Japanese in front (my 'Brexit' self in back), followed by a Swedish truck driven by Icelandic passport holder Diego (Spanish name) with a Finnish passenger, was bound to raise the curiosity of the relaxed looking immigration guard (seated smoking a pipe) at the Mont-Blanc tunnel. Our trip was pure pleasure and cannot be compared to those fleeing their country. For those who live the privileged life in Chamonix, April consists of checking weather to decide if ski up/down, climb, run, fly, or work (rainy option).

This Italian-French border is a common crossing for skiers trying to pick the best of either side but the first question was still ‘does anybody speak French?’ I reply confidently while thinking: 1) those years of school French are still paying off and 2) my language skills were my added value to the group for this trip. It is not uncommon in Chamonix to find five people who don’t speak French let alone Italian. My Italian formed through years of skiing in risky terrain with a Courmayeur crew, if you didn't pick up the lingo fast you risked a very wrong turn. Now being in the 1st van I tried to explain we were on a ski mountaineering trip, a little suspect as we had no gear in the car. Luckily we were followed by the most organized ski/climbing van I know, owned by trip mastermind Alex (officially Jonas Alexander Erlendsson Diego).

An actual Pilot (not just a pet name), Alex had a work window free for ski touring and was motivated. At least 3 different 'Haute Routes’ (multi-day high level mountain crossings) Italy, Switzerland, and Austria were on the table. In the end our 'compromise' to fit everyone was an overnight tour to Gran Paradiso, Aosta, location of the only 4,000 meter summit solely in Italy.

The Crew:

Alexander Diego: our kind Pilot. He is definitely the planner but...Read More

Waterfalls - Tropical and Frozen

Sat, 17 Dec 2016 15:43:22 -0800

Snowbirds: a term for the many Canadians who escape winter by flying to warmer destinations.

I however seem to have lost that part of my heritage and do a reverse migration. When it is cold enough to freeze waterfalls I go celebrate the ice season, and I am not alone.

Each year I am drawn to northern Italy for the Cogne Ice Opening event in Aosta. 80-120 people gather in the mountain hamlet of Lillaz with its welcoming locals and ice features within walking distance. Organised by pro Climbers Tanja Schmitt & Matthias Scherer and Mountain Guide Heike Schmitt the event is an informal mix of clinics, films & presentations, and technical gear. In its 5th year it has a good following. Seeing familiar faces, mixing skill levels, and coaching from the variety of guides, helps me forget how cold I am.

Trail Shorts vs 'Puffy' Jacket?

This year my temperature shift was even more extreme, going from a tropical 35 Celsius to Alps sub zero. Just days before Cogne I was in the Caribbean working on a Team Globetrailers tour bringing a group of runners / hikers on trails in Martinique and Dominica. Volcanic islands lush and green surrounded by turquoise water, give rise to technical terrain through rivers, tree roots, and mangroves.

It is no surprise that Dominica was the film location for Pirates of the Caribbean! With few sandy beaches, no fancy resorts, or direct international flights, it's been spared mass tourism and was my preferred island. Its smaller size, unspoiled nature, friendliness of the people, and independent status gives a different feeling than Martinique which has 5x the population and still part of France.

Dominica: the 'nature island' is located between Guadeloupe and Martinique. With...Read More

Runners Railways and Ridesharing

Sat, 14 May 2016 07:38:10 -0700

The Joy of Racing Close to Home

After traveling to events internationally for years it was a treat to do one at home. No flights to book, no packing special food in case 'organic' doesn't exist at destination, no thinking about fitting liquids into that airport ziplock or if my 1st Aid scissors will be confiscated. I had forgotten how much easier it is doing everything in English. I often work in other languages but now the words could flow in my mother tongue without that confused look back at me.

NDW50 is 50 mile race on the North Downs Way trail south of London, one of eight races organised by Centurion Running on the outskirts of the big city. They have a great following of loyal and friendly runners. While relatively close, the trail is not on my doorstep. With a race check in time of 6-7:30 a.m, no car, and not sure the trains would run that early, I posted in several online ultra-running groups to seek a rideshare from London. Social media has it's uses! I not only learn that a number of people are taking the morning train from Waterloo but it re-connects me with names that I have not seen in years.

Commuting and Connecting

I left the house at 4:30 a.m. the only one in sport clothes, most people were stumbling home from their night out. I was happy to find the station office open and when I requested the train ticket for my A-B journey the guy replied: 'you know those are far apart?', my reply: 'I know, I am going to run in between'. He tried again to make me understand how far it was, 'yes, 50 miles', he conceded with a perplexed 'good luck'. The train was already on the platform and I saw something about the first 5 carriages which escaped me. A nice stranger explained only the front carriages go. I laugh at the image of myself sitting contently early in the wrong carriage while the rest of them pulled away to the race without me.

Old running...Read More

"Yah Man" - the Caribbean Way

Tue, 05 Jan 2016 14:14:54 -0800

'Life without a car' is not always about risky hitch hiking, meeting other adventure seekers, or getting to adrenaline driven activities. It is also about what we learn when going slow and in that extra time it takes to get around, re-balancing the mind and soul with small inspirations along the way - taking in those signs we might otherwise speed past.

On a recent trip to the Caribbean I arrived on Nevis by boat late at night half asleep. Curious to see what the island was like in daylight I hired a bike to go around the 35km circular route. It was not long but with a 1pm start in 30 degree (C) heat those kilometers were sufficient to sweat out the jet lag. A mountain bike was the only thing on offer, not the lightest but solid for the bumpy roads.

The Lonely Tunnel

My outing starts well when leaving the hotel the first sign I see says 'good fortune will accompany' me 'each time' I pass under what is apparently the only tunnel in Nevis. As cars can't pass through I am already feeling lucky to have discovered it and to secure my chances I enter it a number of times.

The island road is quiet, people are relaxed, nobody impatiently driving up behind my bike or trying to push me off the road. I go slow enough that I get to exchange greetings with people along the way, and when passing one of the churches the parish outside welcome me with friendly smiles and waves. At the biggest hill I provided entertainment for the men chilling out on their porch as they surely thought only a tourist would go out biking in the heat of the day and I definitely was not looking like any pro-cyclist. It was likely my pride that didn't allow me to stop until further up the hill, just out of sight. While I rest there in a small patch of shade to catch my breath (sounding like I was...Read More

White Christmas

Thu, 24 Dec 2015 20:00:00 -0800

Vancouver to Whistler Thanks to Ridesharing

For passionate skiers a 'white Christmas' means more than just a pretty view of the flakes out the window, rather a powder day on the mountain. This year Whistler Blackcomb made Santa’s good list and was gifted with 4meters of snow in December! In contrast, it seems those Euros must have been naughty as their resorts are dry.

It turns out that having accepted festive invites to come back from the Alps was (innocently) well timed. My parents accuse me of only chasing the snow but we compromise with a family dinner December 24^th in North Van so that I can make it to Whistler on Christmas day. Getting around the North Shore without a car is a challenge but this solved the issue of gifts - I didn't buy any. I abandoned the idea of going around by foot for last minute shopping when that Vancouver non-stop rain kicked in, but before I sound like a Christmas 'scrooge' I'll add that I came from Europe with gifts in hand. It was time to turn the focus to the real fun - ski plans.

I went on my go-to ride sharing site hitchplanet.com (previously hitchwhistler) and immediately found three rides heading to Whistler Dec.25th, similarly priced, all around 6:30am but one guy 'Bob' was 5min from my house. I thought I scared him off by asking too many questions but he was so nice he actually offered to bring me a coffee with the pick up! I pushed my luck by asking for a hot chocolate with almond milk, to which he politely replied he did not have. Was Bob actually going to bring me a homemade coffee? I already thought a Starbucks stop was good, but this true hospitality was a nice welcome back and the real Canadian friendliness a pleasant change from the almost comical grumpiness I see in France (my second...Read More

Sharing Axes and Wheels - Cogne Ice Opening 2015

Thu, 17 Dec 2015 15:00:00 -0800

Women are notoriously known for icy cold hands and feet, so maybe they feel a special bond with the frozen waterfalls on which an increasing number are drawn to climb. Leading the charge are twins Heike and Tanja Schmitt, high level mountain guide and pro climber respectively, who organise the Cogne Ice Opening event in Aosta Italy each December. It draws a great crowd however getting to the small hamlet of Lillaz (the event base) can involve national border crossing, highways and mountain roads - not easy without a car.

For those who work a full time job and can't spend days traveling by public transport (most people I know), particularly in a region not well connected by train, renting a car is a solution. People with good corporate jobs may have a better budget to play with but ride sharing is not just about cutting costs it is also about community, sharing adventure, and reducing environmental impact and so it was great to see the number of people open to carpooling for Cogne.

Sharing Wheels to Cogne

A unique international mix of women + man assembled in Geneva then Chamonix for my ride.

Ryoko, Japanese - our driver and talented skier and climber (nicely organised the rental car)

Heather, Canadian - accomplished alpinist, including expeditions to Lhotse, Makalu, Everest, etc

Jessica, Scottish - complete beginner to ice climbing

Bjorn, German - former Head of Transport to the UN and now our Chef de...Read More

Good (powder) Rides

Sat, 31 Dec 2011 15:00:00 -0800

1st Hitch - Vancouver to Mount Baker

Mountain life can be limited when you don’t have a car. It influences when and where you go play, you definitely can’t chase powder the same way. With some fancy footwork and a few hitches you might make your ‘spontaneous’ destination on time for the first line, whether skiing down or climbing up. Selective on gear, as you have to carry it all, you get to know bus and train schedules by heart and at the end of the day hope you don’t miss that vital transport link to get back home.

The flipside of this ‘1st world problem’ is the adventure and people along the way. I am based in the Alps but come home to Vancouver for my dose of green trees, ocean blue, and white powder. My parents have two cars but I still end up without one and so I was driven (literally) to look for alternatives. I found Hitchwhistler.com a platform for carpooling on common routes such Vancouver – Cypress –Squamish - Whistler.

My first online hitch was December 2011 with a Coquitlam guy named Morgan. There was a call out for Mount Baker, Washington - powder day planned! Imagine trying this day trip on public transport. Admittedly I had to enlist my father for an early morning ride. At my mature age he thought the days of dropping me to go play with boys (25-year olds) were in the past, but he looks at the truck (a Dodge with a metal welding deck) and reasons I am okay.

After the obligatory Dunkin Donuts we get to the border. Rather than the usual ‘security’ question “what will you be doing in the US”, ironically it was “how do you know each other?”- Morgan nicely says he just met me hitchhiking (wrong answer)! Who would have thought two sketchy boarders look more responsible than me but apparently ‘Self-Employed’ raises flags. The guard tires of hassling me and waves us through to an awesome 50cm powder day. Unfortunately Morgan aggravated an injury...Read More